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Trigger
 
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| Need some advice on what to do. Motor is a 1997 225HP OX66 Yamaha. In September of 06 I was coming in from a trip and the lower unit started thumping like crazy. I drained the oil and it was full of metal. Fair enough, after 9 years and a bunch of hours I can understand a lower unit might wear out. I paid The Maintainance Shop ~2k to install a refurb replacement. Coming into Ft Morgan last weekend from the ADSFR my lower unit started thumping again. Less than 2 years and maybe 200 hours and the unit is bad already? I'm not flaming TMS becuase I can't say they did anything wrong. 6 or 8 bolts to replace a unit, not a whole lot to mess up. I chang the oil myself and use new washers so I don't think water got in from anything I did. As far as I know the motor shaft is true so I don't think that is causing abnormal wear. I had Accu prop work the prop so I know it is balanced. Not sure what to do. I will probably go drain the oil today and see what it looks like. I am not excited about the idea of paying thousands more for another lower unit. Any advice?
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Snapper
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Let us know what the oil looks like. Also, remove the prop and check for fishing line. Out of curiosity, what rpms does your engine idle at out of gear and in gear in the water? Definately need to find out what the cause was so it doesn't happen again. I may have a good used one. I will have to check.
Davlor Marine, LLC Boat repairs and detailing 850-777-7303
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Grouper
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| Don't blame TMS. If you go back and look at ALL the old post, once a foot goes out you will replace it about 3-4 times before you decide to buy a new motor. It lasting 2 years is something unheard off from what I have seen on this fourm. I will not call out name but if you want names PM me and I will tell you about folks that REPLACED the lower unit and how many times. A friend of mine replace 4, yes FOUR, at close to 2k apiece. He should have just bought a new motor.
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Snapper
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I don't think he was blaming TMS. Even if he was thinking it, I would see any reason to. It has been 2 years with no problems, and he has changed his own oil. Usually there is an outside source causing the failure in a short time frame.(ie. too high of idle slamming into gear, water on oil, impact, comeing out of the water at high rpms, wrong oil etc).
Davlor Marine, LLC Boat repairs and detailing 850-777-7303
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Grouper
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DOUBLE "D" & LV (7/22/2008)
I don't think he was blaming TMS. Even if he was thinking it, I would see any reason to. It has been 2 years with no problems, and he has changed his own oil. Usually there is an outside source causing the failure in a short time frame.(ie. too high of idle slamming into gear, water on oil, impact, comeing out of the water at high rpms, wrong oil etc).Your Right. I guess I said it wrong. After 2 years you can't blame who ever fixed it. I was just saying that folks that I know of after replacing their lower unit has ALWAYS had to replace it within 100-150 hours. I was pointing out that once he made it close to 200 he was lucky. So for thesconfussion. JUST FROM MY EXPERINECE, When the lower unit goes you might as well by a new motor IF you fish a lot. Knowing Dream Weaver from his post HE FISHES ALOT. SO two years it must have been a HELLVA rebuild.
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Trigger
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| I didn't get to drain the unit today. I will do it tommorow. Engine out of gear in the water idles around 700-800rpm. In gear it runs around 600rpm. I think the Yam spec is like 760rpm out of gear warmed up in the water so I keep it right in that range. I run a single screw all over the gulf so I am fairly good about keeping up on maintenance Also worth mentioning, when I first got the unit replaced, I noticed a bit of play in the prop. With the motor tilted up I could grab the prop and "lift" it about 1/16th of an inch. Looking at my shop manual, it looks like it might not have been shimmed correctly.
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Grouper
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DreamWeaver21 (7/22/2008)
I didn't get to drain the unit today. I will do it tommorow. Engine out of gear in the water idles around 700-800rpm. In gear it runs around 600rpm. I think the Yam spec is like 760rpm out of gear warmed up in the water so I keep it right in that range. I run a single screw all over the gulf so I am fairly good about keeping up on maintenance Also worth mentioning, when I first got the unit replaced, I noticed a bit of play in the prop. With the motor tilted up I could grab the prop and "lift" it about 1/16th of an inch. Looking at my shop manual, it looks like it might not have been shimmed correctly.If you live on the west side and need help PM me. I have to be at work tomorrow by 3PM.
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Snapper
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| Hard to diagnose the problem without inspecting the motor. But here are a few items to steer you towards the solution. Answer the following questions: 1. Do you change the lower unit's lubricant at the recommended intervals? 2. Are you using the recommended grade of lubricant? 3. Are you using the correct procedure to refill the lower unit? If you answered no to one or more of the questions, then you most likely have found the answer(s) to your problem. If you answered yes to all the above questions, proceed to the next set of questions. 4. What is the appearance of the old lubricant? a. If milky or if water runs out the lower drain hole - The cause is either a bad seal or bad gasket. I would probably have to guess a bad seal over a bad gasket. Seals can be damaged by a bad shaft (either bent or scarred) or by monofilament line wrapping itself around the propeller shaft. A very small amount of water will not harm your lower unit since it will eventually drop out of the emulsion and settle at the bottom of your lower unit after your engine is turned off. If you use your engine frequently, this will not happen. Once you run the engine again, the oil and water will again emulsify. That's why I always changed the lubricant at the end of the boating season and halfway thru it. The only gaskets (O-rings) that normally might need frequent replacing are the ones on the drain/fill plugs of the lower unit. Gaskets such as for the water pump housing only need to be changed when you replace the impeller. Too much water in the lower unit will definitively ruin it. b. Does the lubricant appear real black (burned) - See questions 1 and 2. Just like in motor oil, the additives break down after a period of use. Also, use the wrong viscosity and you'll ruin the gears. 5. Any metal shavings in the lubricant the first time you changed it after the unit was replaced? Assuming you changed the lubricant after the first 100 hours, and you found metal shavings, the following could have happened: < | | | |